Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.